Knit goods



(No Model.)`

W. ESTY. KNIT Goon's.

Patented Oct. 5

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NITE, STATES PATENT Trios..

WILLIAM Esrv, or LAcoNIA, NEW HAMPSHIRE.

KNIT GOODS.

SPECIFICATION forming perf. ef Lettere Patent No. 591,128, dated october'4 5,1897'. i

` Appiieesen inea July 20,1894.. serialNe. 518,111. (remodel.)

.T0 a/ZZ whom it mag/concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM Esrv, a citizen of the United States, residing at Laconia, in the county of Belknap and State of New Hampshire, have' invented certain new and useful Improvements in Knit `Goods and the Art of Producing the. Same of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

My invention relates to stockings of the class which have ribbed leg portions and plain ankle and foot portions, and has for its general object to improve such stockings in character, to obviate certainjdefects which have been present heretofore `insome cases, to facilitate the production of such stockings, to simplify the process of manufacture, and to cheapen the cost of production. Usually in the production of stockings having ribbed leg portions and plain ankle and foot portions the said different portions are knit on different machines. This necessitates a transfer of the portion which first is knit to the second machine and also the application of such portion to the needles of such second machine. Obviously this consumes both labor and time and` adds to the expense of making the stockings.

According to one mode of procedure which has been followed in the production of stockings having ribbed leg portions and plain ankle and foot portions the stocking is knit from the top downward in rib fabric in a ribknitting machine, and on arriving at the line where the bottom of the leg joins the top of the ankle the action of the ribbing-needles is suppressed, leaving the plain needles alone in action during `the formation of the ankle and foot. y This method has the drawback or disadvantage that the bottom loops or stitches produced on the ribbing-needles require to be secured in somefmanner in order that after they have been discharged from such needles they may not draw out or run. Usually on arriving at the bottom of the leg portion the loops lastformed on the ribbingneedles are transferred or picked onto certain of the adjacent plain needles and interknit with the succeeding loops formed on such plain needles. This operation consumes time and adds quite materially to the cost of production.

According to a second mode of procedure the stocking is begun at the toe in a machine capable of producing plain goods only, andM after the foot and ankle portions have been knit in plain fabric on the needles of such machine the goods is transferred from such machine to a machine iitted to produce ribbed goods, the upper end thereof being applied to the plain needles of such rib knitting machine. The ribbing-needles of such ribknitting machine are thrown into action and then are caused to engage with the portions of yarn orA thread which connect the loops that are held on the' plain needles, the two sets of needles working' conjointly inthe production of the leg portion in ribbed fabric. This method has three drawbacks or disadvantages, which are, first, the necessity for employing two different machines and transferring a part of the fabricfrom one machine to the other; second, the fact that at the junction of the ankle portion and `leg portion a series of eyelet-holes is formed around the stocking at the line Where theribbingneedles are brought intov action, and, third, the factthat when a stocking is begun. at the toe and knit toward the top ofthe leg the top of the leg is liable to ravel and cannot be finished on the knitting-machine with a Welt or hem that is free fromliability to ravel.

I have discovered how to knit a stocking of the class in question on a single machine, be'- ginning at the toe thereof and ending with the top of the leg, of one or more yarns or threads which shall be continuous from the beginning of the stocking to the end thereof, how to overcome or obviate in improved Inanner theobjectionable appearance of eyeletholes at the j unctionof the plain and ribbed work, and also how to form a welt or' hem on such. machine and subsequently finish off the same in simple and expeditious manner.`

My invention consists in an improved stocking of the said class, the said stocking being characterized by being knit, beginning at the toe, of a continuous yarn or yarns and with unbroken and continuous courses of loops at and adjacent to the place wherethe change is made from plain goods to ribbed goods, with closedor reduced eyelet-holes at the junction of the plain goods and ribbed goods,

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and with a secure top'iinish in the form of a knit welt or hem.

The invention iirst will be described fu'lly with reference to the accompanying drawings, after which the character thereof will be more particularly pointed out and clearly defined in the claims at the close of this specification.

rIhe accompanying drawings show, in Figure 1, a view of a stocking embodying my invention, a portion of the length thereof being broken out to save space. Figs. 2 to 5 are views illustrating successive steps taken in changing from plain knitting to rib-knitting. Figs. G to 10 are views showing features that are described hereinafter. Fig. 11 is a view showing in a greatly-enlarged scale the features of the hem that is formed at the top of the stocking-leg.

In carrying out my invention I begin at the toe 1 and successively knit in usual manner the toe, foot portion 2, heel 3, and ankle portion -t in plain stitch on the plain needles of a knitting-machine capable of rib-knitting and also of performing heel and toe work upon the said plain needles. The knitting is continued in plain stitch above the heel until an ankle portion of sufficient length is produced, say to the point 5 in Fig. 1. From the said point up the leg of the stocking is knit in rib-stitch. On arriving at the point 5 I suspend or stop the knitting action of the needles 6, (see Figs. 2 and 3,) which are in engagement with the last-formed loops or stitches 7 of the plain fabric and which I shall term plain needles henceforth herein. Fig. 2 shows a portion of the fabric and a few of the plain needles as the fabric and needles appear at this time. Simultaneously with such suspension or stoppage, or immediately thereafter, I cause other needles S to come into action, such needles alternating in the desired order with the plain needles and being termed ribbing-needles henceforth herein. I operate the machine su fliciently to lay the yarn or thread into the hooks of all the ribbing-needles and retract such needles so as to draw the said yarn or thread, in what, for convenience, I shall term a welting course 9, around the plain needles, which, it will be remembered, are not knitting at this time. This operation merely places loops 10 on the ribbing-needles 8 and adds the intermediate portions 101 of the yarn or thread of which such loops or stitches are formed to the loops or stitches which were last formed on the plain needles (i, as shown in Fig. 3. I now render the ribbing-needles 8 inoperative for knitting and render the plain needles 6 operative again for knitting, knitting one or more courses 71 7 2 on the plain needles. (See Figs. 4t and I then throw the ribbing-needles 8 into action and proceed with rib-knitting. The iirst regular loops of the ribs are shown at 7 3 in Fig. 5.' The appearance of the fabric will then be substantially as shown on an enlarged scale in Fig. 5. If desired, more than one welting course may be laid around the needles before the ribbing-needles are thrown into regular action. In the foregoing case the ribbing-needles are not shogged laterally during the short interval while they are rendered inoperative and while they are in their retracted position holding loops, as in Fig. 4. Preferably, however, the said ribbing-needles are thus shogged during the said short interval, so that when rib-knitting is begun they will work through spaces between the plain needles,which are one removed to the one side or the other of the spaces through which they were projected to seize the yarn or thread, thereby making a course of shogged loops 10, as in Fig. 6. The result in the case of shogging the ribbing-needles to the extent of one space and then bringing them into action again is as shown in Fig. 6. The ribbingneedles .may be shogged thus in a given direction, and then after having been in action simultaneously with the plain needles during the knitting on one round, so as to take the yarn while still retaining the loops iirst held, may be rendered temporarily inoperative .while one plain round is knit on the plain needles, being meantime shogged in the reverse direction back into their former position and rendered operative to knit again in *the next round, rib-knitting then being proceeded with. The result is in this instance as represented in Fig. 7, the second course of shogged loops or stitches being shown at 11. The shogging of the loops 10 and 11 is advantageous, inasmuch as it draws closer to each other the loops at the opposite sides of the eyelet-holes, taking up somewhat the slack of the loops first formed by the ribbing-needles. The shogging of the ribbing-needles may be effected to advantagein cases in which the introduction of the so-called welting course 0, above mentioned, is omitted, as in Fig. S, the ribbing-needles being caused to engage with the portions of the yarn or thread which extend from loop to loop of the plain needles then being rendered inoperative to knit while one or more rounds are being knit on the plain needles alone, and afterward being shogged once or twice, as aforesaid, thereby forming the shogged loops 108.

In Fig. 9 is shown what I regard as the best mode of obviating the formation of eyeletholes. Thus, having reference to the said iigure, I proceed through the stages which are illustrated in Figs. 2, 3, and I and which have been described above. I-Iaving rendered the ribbing-needles inoperative, they holding loops 10, as in Fig. 4, and having rendered the plain needles (S operative and knit thereon'the course of loops 71, (shown in Fig. 4,) I'render said plain needles inoperative again, having meanwhile, shogged the ribbing-needles to the extent of one space. I then lay a second welting course 91 -upon the needles, the plain needles remaining inoperative and the ribbing-needles being worked sufficiently to draw loops 102 of this second welting course while retaining the loops 10 already held by IOO IIO

them. The ribbing-needles then are rendered inoperative and the plain needles operative, courses 74E 75 being knit on'the said plain needles. The ribbing needles are then thrown into action conjointly with lthe saidV plain needles, the rib-loops which are produced in the first-course of ribbed fabric being marked 76 in Fig. 9. This I regard as yielding the best results. Fig. differs from Fig. 9 only in that the second welting course 91 of Fig. 9 is omitted, the ribbingneedles, after having been shogged, as has just been described in connection with Fig. 9, being caused to engage with the connecting portions of the course of yarn from which the loopsi are formed and to retain the loops 10 and 103, while the plain needles proceed with the forv mation of the courses 75, the rib-needles thereafter being thrown into action simultaneously with the plain needles, so as to'produce ribbed fabric, the first course of the latter being represented at the top of Fig. 10.

The knitting of the leg in ribbed fabric 45 is continued until the desired length has been produced, whereupon the ribbing-needles are again rendered inoperative, they ceasing to knit, although still holding the loops last formed thereby until on the plain needles has been produced a length of plain fabric'suficient to produce when folded over upon itself a hein 12 of the desired width. The ribbingneedles then are rendered operative and ribknitting is proceeded with for a short distance. The last-formed side of the hem thus is bound down on the inner side of the stocking by the course of loops 13, which were held While the ribbing-needles remained inoperative to knit. After the stocking has been detached the projecting edge 14 of ribbed fabric on the inner side of the stocking is trimmed down close to the said course of loops 13, leaving a raw edge on the inner side of the stocking, which edge isoverseamed, as at 15, Fig. 1, or otherwise fastened off to prevent it from raveling. Fig. 11 shows portions of the upper part of the stocking and its hem in enlarged detail.

In Fig. 1 the ribbed portion of the leg of the stocking is represented as having been stretched or pulled out laterally, it being thus shown in order to make clearly apparent in the drawings the ribbed character of the fabric of such portion.

One important advantage of the shogged stitches 10 and 11 of Figs. 6, 7, S, 9, and 10 is that the inclined position thereof causes them to cross diagonally the enlarged openings which are produced at the lower ends of the ribbed courses. They thus partly cover up the sa-id openings. In practice also the connecting portions 101 of the welting course assume a curved position, causing them, more particularly in the case of Fig. 9, to assist in covering the enlarged openings.

Important characteristics of my improved stocking, which is shown and described herein, are the facts that the coursesof loop progress or are developed from the toe to the top, and that the plain seamless foot portion and ribbed leg portion are both formed of -continuous yarn or thread, and hence the courses of loops are unbroken or uninterrupted at and adjacent to the place where the change from plain goods to ribbed goods is made. One or more continuous yarns or threads may be employed in practice, asV usual. It will be understood that when the plain portion of a `stocking is produced upon one machine capable of making plain work and then is transferred to the needles of a second machine which is capable of producing ribbed work the courses at or adjacent to the place where the loops were placed upon the needles of the second machine will be discontinuous or interrupted, the first course knit upon the needles of the second machine beginning at a point which will be located wholly by accident or chance relatively to the termination of the last course which was knit upon the needles of the first machine.

It will be obvious that my improvements in the inode of closing or reducing the'eye lets at the junction of ribbed goods and plain goods and in finishing off the top of the ribbed goods are not confined to use in stockings and may be-utilized in the manufacture of knit fabrics in general.

What I claim is- 1. The improved machine-knit stocking composed of knit fabric in which the courses progress or are developed from the toe to the top, and having a plain seamless foot portion with narrowngs and widenings forming heel and toe gores and a ribbed leg portion, the entire stocking being formed of continuous yarn or thread, and thereby having unbroken and uninterrupted courses of loops `at and adjacent to the place where the change from plain goods to ribbed goods is made,

substantially as described.

2. The improved machine knit stocking composed of knit fabric in which the courses progress or develop from the toe to the top, and having a plain seamless foot portion with narrowings and widenings forming heel and toe gores and a ribbed leg portion, the entire stocking being formed of continuous yarn or thread, and thereby having unbroken or uninterrupted courses of loops at and adja-` cent to the place where the change from plain goods to ribbed goods is made, with the eyeletholes which usually exist at such place, closed or obviated by the said yarn or thread without the employment of supplemental yarn or thread, substantially as described.

3. VThe improved machine -knit stocking composed of knit fabric in which the courses progress from the toe to the top and having a plain seamless foot portion with narrowings and widenings forming heel and toe gores and a ribbed leg portion with a knit welt or hem at the top of the latter, the entire stock- IIO ing bein g formed of continuous yarn or thread and thereby having unbroken and uninterrupted courses of loops at and adjacent to the place Where the change from plain goods to ribbed goods is made.

4. The improved machine -knit stocking composed of knit fabric in which the courses progress or develop from the toe to the top and having a plain seamless foot portion with narrowings and widenings forming lieel and toe gores and a ribbed leg portion with a knit welt or hem at the top of the latter, the entire stocking being formed of continuous yarn, or thread and thereby having unbroken and uninterrupted courses of loops at4 and adjacent to the place where the change from plain goods to ribbed goods is made, and with the eyelet-holes which usually eXist at such place closed or obviated by such yarn or thread without the employment of supplemental yarn or thread.

5. The improved knitted fabric composed of plain goods in its lower portion and of ribbed goods in its upper portion, with unbroken courses of loops where the change from plain goods to ribbed goods is made, with awelting course 9 of such yarn or thread in the upper part of the plain goods having loops thereof engaging the connecting portions of yarn which join the loops of a course of the plain goods, such loops of the welting course being drawn up behind a course or courses of the plain goods and constituting the starting-loops of the ribs, substantially as described.

G. The improved knitted fabric composed of plain goods in its lower portion and of ribbed goods in its upper portion, with unbroken courses of loops Where the change from plain goods to ribbed goods is made, With a Welting course 9 of such yarn or thread in the upper part of the plain goods having loops thereof engaging the connecting portions of yarn which join the loops of a course of the plain goods, such loops of the welting course being drawn up behind a course or courses of the plain goods and constituting the starting-loops of the ribs, and also being shogged, all substantially as described.

7. The improved knitted fabric composed of plain goods in its lower portion and of ribbed goods in its upper portion, having near the upper edge of the plain goods loops drawn from between the regular loops of such goods to the reverse of the fabric, such loops being drawn up behind a course or courses of the plain goods and constituting the starting-loops of the ribs, and also being shogged, al1 substantially as described.

S. A stocking or the like having the upper portion thereof knit in ribbed goods and inished with a hem knit in plain goods, the final portion of such hem being knit in rib goods and united to the reverse side of the stocking by the last loops pertaining to the ribs in said upper portion of the stocking, such final portion of the web having a trimmed edge on such reverse side which is secured by. being fastened off, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof l affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

WILLIAM ESTY.

Witnesses:

F. L. KENDALL, TIM E. PREDIDTs. 

